HSF14: #4 Under It All

The Challenge: Under It All ... I ended up making 3 items so that I would have a full set of undergarments under my Natural Form dress.

Petticoat
Fabric: 10 yards pink broadcloth (7 from my Grandmother's quilt stash purchased in 1995 for the petticoat. 3 yard purchased new for the train). 3.5 yards tulle (purchased new).
Pattern: Truly Victorian TV125: 1879 Petticoat with Detachable Train
Year: 1879
Notions:  thread, buttons (from my other Grandmother's stash found in her closet), 1" twill tape (vintage - found at antique market for $.10!!!) 
How historically accurate is it? 90%? It's machine stitched and the buttons are plastic. 
Hours to complete: Unknown. Sorry, I don't keep track because I'm such a slow sewer. I can tell you that the train, except for the button holes, took 10 episodes of Law & Order SVU to complete and I did complete that part on one day. SVU is my new sewing motivation. :)
First worn: Broken Hearts Masquerade on Valentine's Day
Total cost: $13.56 total ($8.38 for the 3.5 yards of broadcloth + $3.58 for the tulle + approx $1.50 for a second spool of thread, first spool I have had for years + $.10 for the twill tape)

Chemise
Fabric: 3 5/8 yards white broadcloth
Pattern: Truly Victorian TV102: Chemise and Drawers
Year: 1885 
Notions:  thread, 2  buttons (from my other Grandmother's stash found in her closet), ribbon insertion lace, ribbon. 
How historically accurate is it? 90%? It's machine stitched and the buttons are plastic. 
Hours to complete: Unknown, but I think just a couple of hours all together. 
First worn: Broken Hearts Masquerade on Valentine's Day
Total cost: $8.77 ($5.78 for the fabric + $2.99 for the lace. Everything else was from stash.)

 Drawers
Fabric: 3 yards white broadcloth and scrap from the petticoat to make the ruffles.
Pattern: Truly Victorian TV102: Chemise and Drawers
Year: 1885 
Notions:  thread, 2 buttons (from my other Grandmother's stash found in her closet),  
How historically accurate is it? 90%? It's machine stitched and the buttons are plastic. 
Hours to complete: Unknown, but probably only a few hours all together.
First worn: Broken Hearts Masquerade on Valentine's Day
Total cost: $0 !!! :) (all material from stash)

Total Cost of the 3 Pieces: $20.73

These are part of an entire ensemble that Challenges 3, 4, & 5 will help to complete. The goal was to have everything complete in time for the annual Broken Heart's Masquerade Ball on Valentine's Day.... aka, My Birthday! ... And I did it with a few days to spare :)

Starting to cut out the petticoat.

 My awesome find at the Scott's Antique Market.... the booth of vintage clothing, fabric, crochet, lace, ribbons, thread, etc. I raided the 10 cent table for twill tape and bias binding for my future vintage dresses. 1" white twill tape had been on my shopping list for this petticoat and this saved me a trip across town to the fabric store.

Worked out perfectly!

The bias tape is used as a stabilizer for the buttons.

 

Hemming all the ruffle panels.

I started out wanting to put pleated trim around the bottom like the picture on the pattern....

But after 2 failed attempts at trying to get the right pleat ratio, I gave up and gathered it into a ruffle and saved myself tons of time. I will save the pleating for the skirt.

Working on the train...

Beautiful button holes courtesy of my new sewing machine!

Front of finished garment.

Back of finished garment.

 Close-up of the buttons. You can see that I had to use several different styles since I was digging them out of the jar that my Grandmother saved.

 I absolutely love the way this turned out! I love the feel of it on and how it hangs. I can't wait to wear the entire dress!

Here's the tag that was on the fabric from my Grandmother's quilt stash. Thank you Granny for dating it. :)

The Chemise and Drawers sewed up so quickly that I forgot to take pictures of the process.

Side view: drawers fasten on the side.

Played with the decorative stitches on my new machine.

Front

Back

The "sleeves"

The trim.

After the first wearing... the train on the skirt served it's purpose, the train on the dress suffered minimal alcohol and snow slush absorption. It washed easily and I air dried it.