Steampunk Roller Derby - Part 2

TIME FORE TEA...................

One of the things that I learned in college and use on the more often when costuming is tea dying. We had a project on natural dyes. We had scraps of t-shirt fabric and we were instructed to present X# of natural items that would dye the fabric. Or course there was the standard tea and coffee, but other options that were presented overall were grape juice, mustard, black walnut hulls, and strawberry daiquiri mix.

In case you have never experimented with tea or coffee dying, I will give you a general step-by-step instruction.

**If you're a first timer, do test swatch in small bowl first to see how your fabric takes the tea (or coffee)**

Step 1: Get out your biggest pot, fill it with water and start heating on the stove.

I happen to have this wonderful spaghetti pot that has a strainer that fits down in it so that when things are done I just have to lift the strainer and voila... darined!!!!

Step2: Put about 6-8 family size tea bags in the water.

The darkness of the resulting color will depend on how many tea bags are used, how long you let the begs steep, and how long you leave the fabric in. With harder to dye fabric like the curtains I used, I left the tea bags in the entire time and I let the fabric sit in the water over night.

 Step 3: I do not remember what the measurements were for this step, I usually just put "some" in. White vinegar and salt. If I had to guess, for the size pot I used, I would say 1/2-1 cup of vinegar and maybe a 1/4 cup of salt. These both help to set the color (also tossing the fabric in the dryer to heat set it when you're done, if the fabric can handle the dryer).

Here's the before pictures of the fabric I needed to dye: 2 lace curtain panels.

Step 4: Toss in the fabric, let it  simmer for a while (30min - 1 hour), then turn off the heat and let it sit until the desired color is reached. If the color is achieved during the simmer, go ahead and take it out. Rinse it in cold water until the water runs clear. Heat set in the sun or dryer. (Make sure to heat set before it's ever run through a regular wash cycle with detergents)

Option: Dying with coffee.

 A great use for unused morning coffee: do your sample with it. Which is what I did one morning before leaving for work. I just poured the leftovers in a big mug, added a little vinegar and 1 of my doilies. I let it sit all day.

 Before and After of the small, orange and white doily. The coffee did as I hoped and turned the orange into more of a brown color.

Since my results were good, I went ahead with the rest of the doilies. After I had the curtains sitting in the tea, I made extra strong batch of coffee, added some salt and vinegar and the rest of the doilies.

I let them sit in the mixture for several hours until they had a good color. Then, I randomly just dumped it all in with the tea and let it continue to soak for the remainder of time I had the curtains in for.

Before and After pictures of the larger orange doily, it maintained more of it's orange color than the smaller one. I guess I forgot to take pics of the other 2 and the lace curtains. Oops. Oh well, they will show up again in the skirt assembly.

Next step will be the assembly of the skirt.

Steampunk Roller Derby - Part 1

Remember how I JUST said an update will have to wait? Well, I forgot I had a post written and was waiting to post it. Go me!

So, I had been planning on making a pair of bloomer shorts for the Steampunk Roller Derby Outfit for TeslaCon. I already have a pair of pants I picked up at the thrift store just for this purpose, and I will still make them. But last night I saw a skirt on Etsy that was just a big mix of satin, lace, ribbon, & doilies and it inspired me.
It kinda looked like this, but this is not the skirt I saw, I can't remember how I came across it in the first place :)  Ooooh, look at these cool spats the seller has too! OK, I'm getting distract..... ooh sparkly!  This is pretty.  Adding this seller to favorites, she has lots of stuff I like! Actually surprised that wasn't the shop where I found the other skirt.
Tomorrow is 50% day at the thrift store near my work so I'm going there with a plan of raiding the lace curtain sheers, place mats, doilies, table runners, & prom dresses. Then 'll need to pick up some tea when I go to the store so I can do a natural dye on them. I'm not necessarily looking for all cream pieces, I'll probably pick up a few of different colors for a little splash here and there. Not sure if I'm going to put it on an elastic waistband  or a normal one. I just hope this thing comes out like what I'm imagining.

2 thrift stores provide some supplies: 1 large, beige, circular table cloth with a lace edge; 2 lace curtain valances (won't use both but thought 1 could be made into a stand-alone skirt); 5 doilies, 1 handkerchief; & 2 belts.

A close up of the doilies and a handkerchief:

This large doily is a great color:

Then I found these 2 belts. The dark brown sequin one is more of a sash-type belt. Love the belt buckle on the gold one.

Next up, I will put my college education to work and do some natural dying with tea and coffee. Stay tuned.

Where have I been?

I promise to update when all the Halloween  stuff is finished - I just can't take the time to write a full post right now..... 4 weeks to go and too many things to finish.

1930s Shoes!!!

So this past week, I had the task of  going through my grandmother's photo albums to find pictures of her for her memorial service. Album after album of old photos where I only knew a fraction of who was in them. Then my mom plops an album on the bed that came out the bedside table. I'm going through it and thinking something just doesn't seem right for it being my grandmother. I come across this.....

and I wonder.... could this be my grandmother and her sisters???? She was born in 1925 and was the oldest of 4 daughters. That little girl in the dark jacket looks to be about 6 or 7, right? Then I think... is THAT my great graandmother?? I knew her when I was younger but all the pictures I had ever seen of her were from the 1950s-1980s. Was it another relative?? I HAD to know!!! Well, I guess my grandmother decided on a rather sad way of getting me the answers I needed. She passed away on Wednesday, September 4th.  I was 2 hours into a 12 hour drive from Alabama to Ohio when my mom called and told me to turn around. I had gone home to see her for what I knew would be the last time. So, another 2 hours later I enter the house and find her youngest sister (not pictured because she wasn't born yet) sitting on the couch. After doing all the sad stuff, I grabbed that album and sat down next to Aunt Linda ... the last remaining person who could confirm or deny my suspicions and identify all the pictures. And she said, yes, that was her mother! Eureka!!! I'm so in love with this picture of her!!! The hat! The coat!

                                         THE SHOES!!!!!!!

AAAHH She's just the perfect picture of the 30s!!! Of course internet costuming dork that I am I think, "American Duchess has something similar to this." Well, hers are 1920s "23 Skidoo" - but maybe Myra's shoes were a favorite pair that she still wore.. who knows.The album turned out to belong to my great grandmother: Myra Blanche Campbell Merideth Bunch. I was able to figure this out by the way my grandmother had signed some pictures and then 2 Mother's Day cards in the back signed the same way. Such an amazing find (more later on the other things unearthed in the house as we went through cupboards and closets).

Now, American Duchess is offering a 1930s shoe... "The Claremont"!! Super cute.

Project Runway Re-Creation #1 - Part 3 - The Pattern

Today's project was creating the pattern so I could figure out how much fabric I need to buy. I started by ripping out all the seams of the dress and ironing all the pieces flat. Also, as a starting point, I folded on the center front line so that I could cut off half the fabric and just use the best side.

I have marked where the pieces will be "cut on fold", and where the pleats will com from and meet at. I numbered each piece like a real pattern and drew grain lines where necessary.

 The long black line in the center of this piece is where the inside of the pleat will fall and where I will place a seam so that 1) the pattern fits on the width of fabric I have and 2) the seam will be hidden and not visible when the dress is worn... or at least that's the idea. All of the skirt pieces had to be cut into additional pieces so that they will fit on the fabric.

 Once I had all the pieces marked and identified, I traced them onto thick brown paper so that 1) when I cut the real fabric there will less chance anything will stretch and 2) since I used so many different fabrics, I needed all the pieces to look uniform for change. I was starting to get the pieces mixed up.

Transferred all the markings.

 Cut all the pieces out.

 I HAVE A PATTERN!!!!!!!

At this point, I had to strategically place the pieces on my cutting board to figure out how many yards of fabric I will need. I almost messed up because at first I figured all the pieces, forgetting that the lower portion was going to be in a different color. So I had to re-arrange them. I think (hope) that 3 yards will be enough for the main portion and while I haven't measure out the bottom portion on the fabric I have for that, I'm fairly certain I have more than enough.

Project Runway Re-Creation #1 - Part 2

Finally getting to move forward on this project. I've been waiting for fabric samples to come in from some online sources to help make my decision on what the main portion of the dress will be made from. Locally, I had decided on a linen-look fabric if I didn't like what I could find online. After a re-shipment of a lost package from Fabric.com finally arrived yesterday with some nice fabrics that I might order for future project, I have decided to go with the 1 sample I ordered from TrimFabric.com - a Textured Crinkle Crepe in Ivory. At $4 a yard, it's roughly the same price as the linen-look at Jo-Ann's and I like the texture better. I will have to at least flat line the skirt because the fabric is a little thin, and then with the extra weight, it will hang a little better.

So, today's project is just un-assembling the mock up to make the pattern pieces to be able to figure out how much fabric I will need. The Crepe is only 52" wide. Not sure how the skirt is going to piece together with this limitation. If I need to add additional seams, I'm going to have to try to place them in the inner crease of the pleats so that they don't show on the outside.

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Other things in progress:

• Re-Creation #2
• Shirt bodice is cut and all tucks sewn
• Need to cut sleeves
• Bought lightweight interfacing for cuffs
• Skirt cut from some linen-ish fabric found at the thrift store. Hurray for 2 1/5 yds of fabric for $3!
• Still trying to find a 12", Invisble, Hunter Green zipper.
• Derby skirt
• Tea dyed all fabrics that needed it.
• Bought random fabric at Jo-Ann's for the misc ruffles.
• Decided it will be a fixed waistband with a zipper rather than an elastic waist band
• bought zipper

Etsy Coupon

While I sit here patiently waiting on fabric swatches to arrive from Fabrics.com (they had to re-send them because they never arrived), let me offer you some free shipping on purchases of $15.00 or more from my Etsy store. There's a link on the side of my blog, or just click here. Use coupon code "freeshipping" at check out! This offer is good through the end of this month (June 2013).

Project Runway Re-Creation #2 - The Planning.

 The second piece I fell in love with from Michelle Franklin's line. I love the skirt, especially the decorative part on the hip. Also the breast-plate piece is pretty awesome too.

 

 

This is the pattern I selected for the shirt:

The runway piece buttons up the entire back, but since I pretty much suck at button holes (I only learned to make them 2 years ago and have only done 1 other piece that required them), I am perfectly fine with this pattern only having 1 button at the neck. I probably will not attempt to put a collar on it because I'm not really a collar kind of girl and I can picture it without fairly easily.

 

 

The fabric for the shirt:

Honestly, I forgot that the green was more of an olive color, but it wouldn't have made a difference since the fabric store didn't have that shade of green. This hunter green is nice though and I already have thoughts and plans for additional colors to make to change it up.

 

 

This is the pattern I selected to use for the skirt:

It's not exactly right, but I haven't really looked closely at the pattern pieces yet to see if I will be able to alter it to the uneven hem line or not. Regardless, I still like the pattern and had been looking for an excuse to buy it. (I think it would make a great Pan Am costume). The chiffon flounce at the bottom I plan on making detachable so that I can change the color or just wear it without the flounce.

Project Runway Re-Creation #1 - part 1

When I saw this come down the runway on the finale of this season's Project Runway, I fell in love! 

It's a creation by the winner, Michelle Lesniak Franklin and her entire line was very Steampunk inspired. So, seeing as I had just purchased my tickets to TeslaCon (will be my first time attending), I knew I was going to need some new outfits, so I decided this would be a great opportunity to advance my non-existent patterning skills.

This is the preliminary sketch I made while watching the show:

This is the pattern I purchased for a starting point based on the above sketch:

This is the revised sketch after downloading every available picture I could find: 

This is when I realized would be learning a LOT more about pattern alterations. The pattern above was just 2 pieces for the dress.  

Using a bed sheet purchased from the thrift store I first converted the front piece to "cut on fold" so there would not be a center front seam. The back I eventually left to be cut as 2 pieces so I can put a zipper in once I make the top fitted enough so that it can't just be slipped over the head. Going through my reference photos, I figured out where to cut the pattern to create the seams

 I moved the side bodice dart up little and angled it differently and then added an under-bust dart to make the bodice more form fitting and create the front bodice seams I could see on the photo. (there are no pictures of what the dress looks like without the top vest so it was just an educated guess that they are dart and not princess seams)

Mock up of the bodice:

Adjustments to the initial pattern as I progressed:

 Starting to figure out the pleats on the upper skirt:

Added the lower skirt: 

(I've been using up what was once my quilt fabric stash.)

Continuing on to the sleeve:

I used the sleeve from this pattern that I plan on using for another re-creation once I finish this one:

After doing the test run, I need to lengthen it by 2 inches to get the cuff to start right at my wrist instead of ending there like on the pattern. I measured around my wrist and around where I want the cuff to end (about 1/2 way down my hand) and cut the sides of the cuff pattern. The non-doubled over width of the cuff is almost perfect once I take the seam allowance into account. I just have to remember that the cuff opening needs to be on the top side of my hand and not lined up with sleeve seam. I really like the way the sleeve is turning out. It has just a little bit of gathering at the cap. I will also need to widen the shoulders of the dress just a little bit so that it's not quite so wide-necked.

 So, now I just need to make a fabric selection for the main portion of the dress and then figure out the over-vest. Other things I need to not forget about when putting the final garment together:

1. Don't forget to lengthen the sleeve
2. Don't forget to widen the shoulders (and add seam allowance)
3. Interfacing and lining on the bodice.
4. Test transparency of main skirt fabric. flat line if needed
5. Angle and trim more from front to back
6. Practice seam finishes, the back seams will be visible, make them look nice.
7. Invisible zipper on dress, exposed zipper on over-vest.
8. Make a small purse to attach like original garment. Do this instead of worrying about making pockets; pockets might ruin the lines of the dress.
9. Don't make sharply pressed pleats, trying flattening them by hand.
10. Don't forget to mark on the mock up where all the pleat folds are.

Back To Blogging

I have recently told myself that with my new job (OK, been there for a little over a year now) and all the free time I have when I get home, there should be no excuse not to blog. So... I'm going to attempt to do a once a week update. That shouldn't be too hard, right? I mean I'm always taking pictures of what I'm working on with the intention of blogging about it, but I always seems to find something else to do instead.

I currently have about 7-8 projects I am either currently working on, thinking about or planning for, or got started and now they're sitting to the side because I got on to something else. So all the things are kinda like this:

1) Currently working on: A recreation of a finale piece from this season's Project Runway winner Michelle Lesniak Franklin. I absolutely fell in love with this when I saw it. This is being made for TeslaCon in October. Currently have the pattern figured except for sleeves (that's today's goal). Bought some grey suede-like fabric for the bottom layer on Saturday at Jo-Ann's off the clearance shelf (50% off red tag price & a 10% entire purchase coupon - Go Me!!!).... I just hope 1 1/2 yards is enough for that part. Waiting on some swatches to come in from a couple of online fabric stores for my options for the cream/ivory portion. If I don't like any of them I'm going to go with a linen-look fabric from Jo-Ann's. Will probably use some sort of suiting material for the over-vest (or whatever you want to call that). This has also been my first go at "franken-patterning" - blog post to come on this creation.

 

2) In planning stage: Another Project Runway finale piece from Michele Lesniak Franklin. Also will be made for TeslaCon in October. I bought a hunter green chiffon, but the vintage shirt pattern I bought to make it from should be easy enough to do in other colors and I have thought to attach the lower skirt ruffle by snaps so that it could be changed out to match the shirt or worn without a lower ruffle. Also, probably going to use the sleeves from the shirt pattern for the above dress as they look very similar.

 

 

 

3) In thought process: Steampunk Roller Girl for Teslacon. Did some research and have only found 2 other girls who have done it and only 1 of those went the direction I am thinking. There will be lots of knitting and leather working needed for this one.

 

4) On the back burner: A pattern that belonged to my Grandmother. My Aunt found several when cleaning out the attic for a yard sale. I have traced this pattern, made a mock up and have started trying to scale it down to fit me. I can't decide on a fabric to make it in. 

 

5) On the back-burner: Another pattern of my Grandmother's. This one is at the exact same point as #4: pattern has been traced, enlarged and mock up made. Also cannot decide on what kind of fabric to use.

 

6) In thought process: Again, another pattern from my Grandmother's attic. This one has just been ironed and put into the Ziploc bag for protection. I have to finish #4 & #5 before I will allow myself to go further on this one. 

 

 

7) In planning stage: Found the photo at an antique store(name on the back is "Minnie"). I have never seen anything from this time period with that kind of pattern for the shirt - it's AWESOME! Then I found this polyester fabric at the thrift store that was almost identical to the pattern in her skirt. There's only 3 yards of the fabric so I don't know that I can do it on the diagonal like Minnie's. Then I was going through my patterns I got for Christmas and realized that I had something that was practically perfect for recreating this.... when I get around to it. Would be good for TeslaCon but I don't really know that I will have the time and I haven't even started looking for the fabric for the top.

 

 

8) In planning stages (for about a year now): This 18th century fashion plate. I found this after I have bought some fabric that would have potentially become an alternate underskirt for my Marie Antoinette dress I made last year. The greens are a nearly perfect match and I was able to find the blue as well. I already purchased a Polonaise pattern to use, everything else just keep getting put ahead of this on the "To Do" list. I had intended on making for Halloween this year but now that I'm going to TeslaCon, I won't need it and I really don't think I have the time to fit it in with everything else I need to make.

So you see, I do have plenty to blog about! Let's see how much I can get done by Halloween!